| Viet Nam autor: Serban Mestecaneanu | vazut de 29416 ori | printeaza articolul | trimite articolul unui prietenIn noiembrie anul trecut, am avut sansa sa fac o scurta vizita intr-o tara rareori aflata pe harta turistica a majoritatii calatorilor: Viet Nam. Aflata sub dominatie comunista, ea se confrunta cu o perioada de tranzitie, care a inceput pe la mijlocul anilor ’90, o data cu deschiderea granitelor catre restul lumii. Desi aceasta schimbare a fost favorabila Viet Namului, ea nu le-a schimbat radical viata vietnamezilor, incat multi dintre ei lupta sa supravietuiasca la limita subzistentei. In Viet Nam exista doua mari categorii sociale aflate la distante considerabile unele de altele: bogatii si saracii. Ce-i deosebeste ? Nu mult, desi foarte mult: un loc de munca. Si asta in conditiile in care termenul ‘bogat’ nu are nici pe departe aceeasi semnificatie ca intr-o societate vestica, ci indica mai degraba o patura sociala care si-a depasit timid pragul existentei dominata de nevoile primare. Cu toate acestea, vietnamezii par sa nu fie constienti de lipsurile de zi cu zi, aparent nu ele le guverneaza viata. Vietnamezii sunt niste oameni mici, slabuti, draguti, vesnic in miscare, si, aparent, vesnic fericiti. Aflindu-ma la primul meu contact cu o civilizatie si o cultura atat de diferite mi-am propus sa las acasa orice bagaj de prejudecati si sa intru in Ha Noi pregatit pentru orice. Nu poti sa intelegi cu adevarat ce simte un european cand se afla pentru prima data in mijlocul orasului Ha Noi, pana nu esti intr-adevar acolo, la fata locului, printre ei, prins fara scapare intr-un furnicar continuu, zgomotos, fascinant. Incercati sa va imaginati intersectia de la Piata Romana invadata subit de de circa 300 de motociclete, intr-un du-te vino de-a dreptul impresionant, ghidate dupa legi necunoscute, aparent minate de un imbold nebun de a nu urma nici o regula, si totusi supravietuind parca printr-o minune, in incercarea de a ajunge la destinatie. Forfota continua a scuterelor si motocicletelor incepe pe la cinci in zori, cand mii de oameni din satele invecinate se intrepatrund cu cei din oras intr-un melanj compact si omogen pentru a nu se desparti decat tarziu in noapte, cand orasul, istovit, se poate in sfarsit odihni, pentru a o lua de la capat a doua zi. Ca pieton, iti trebuie mult curaj, credinta si multa, foarte multa incredere in conducatorii traficului pe doua roti. Un semn de pace inaltat in aer, precum o umbrela sau ceva asemanator, iti va netezi cu siguranta calea spre trotuarul de vis-à-vis. Coplesit oarecum de puzderia de motociclisti grabiti pe care-i intalneam la tot pasul, am incercat intr-o dimineata sa gasesc ceva diferit, si, cu ajutorul unui ghid amabil gasit in persoana unui localnic, cooptat contra unei sume modice de bani locali, am ajuns in Ba Cha, un sat aflat la circa 20 km de Ha Noi. Aici am gasit un satuc mic si plin de culoare, poate si datorita atelierelor de ceramica larg raspandite in mica comunitate, majoritatea afaceri de familie, unde fiecare membru isi cunoaste rostul, de la tatal care ‘pregateste’ amestecul si-l coace in cuptoare, pana la mama si fiicele care-l picteaza cu maiestria invatata de generatii. Fiind insotit de ghidul meu local, am avut sansa sa fiu primit cu bucurie in cateva case complet necunoscute, care mi s-au dezvaluit mie, unui strain, la fel ca unui vecin pe care-l revad cu drag. Desi foarte modeste, casele erau foarte curate, lucru care se datora in mare parte traditiei asiatice de a te descalta atunci cand intri intr-o casa, asta deoarece exista un obicei pastrat din vremuri stravechi de a lua masa pe jos, direct pe dusumea. Am fost invitat sa beau un ceai alaturi de ei si sa aflu povesti despre copii si nepoti, in incercarea gazdelor mele de a ma face sa ma simt cat mai bine in casa lor, si desi incercam sa incheg o conversatie, tot ce reuseam era sa dau din maini, sa fac poze si sa zambesc. Tot aici, trecand pe langa o curte saracacioasa, am zarit o batranica care taia de zor o gramajoara de surcele. Prin ghidul meu, am aflat ca are 72 de ani, iar hrana ei zilnica este asigurata din vanzarea manunchiurilor de surcele pe care le strange zilnic si le vinde la piata. Am primit o lectie de viata de la aceasta sarmana batranica, atat de multumita si de fericita in simplitatea si saracia ce o inconjura, si care nu s-a sfiit, din putinul ei, sa-mi dea in dar trei lamai si sa ma copleseasca cu urari de drum bun. Ce sa zic ? Iata ce m-a impresionat cel mai mult in Viet Nam: oamenii. Ser Ban foto: Serban Mestecaneanu
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